I’m not a food writer. I don’t know a rhubarb from a roux. What I do know and can recognize is vision, entrepreneurial passion, style and taste. Oleg Grossu, owner of Cipasso has all that and more. You step into a clean open space with old brick walls. American Jazz standards playing–not overbearing–but there.
Grossu, and his partner, Aurica Danalachi, have realized a two-year old dream. After years working in the restaurant business, Oleg opened Cipasso this May. Oleg has been a sommelier for 15 years and former manager of La Buvette and Dilla. Cipasso has a small staff of two in the kitchen and Oleg–plus mama.
Oleg knows his wines. One full wall in the beautiful sunny space at Via dell ‘Orso 71 is lined with bottles ranging from assertive primativos to sexy brunellos, spritely prosecco to blushing rosato.
This is not just a wine bar. Cipasso offers more than delicious appetizers and snacks. It offers light dinners also. The appetizers tonight were bruchetti with a classic tomato topping set off with small amounts of red pepper, a unique panzanella with the inclusion of cucumber hinting at spring, and a creamy potato puree piped onto bruchetta topped by anchovie and a sprig of green. On another visit I sampled a delicious white bean puree seeded with small shrimp. These antipastos are offered with your wine served in shapely sparkling glasses.
For dinner I had the meatballs served with a deep green mound of rapini–Italian broccoli. The meatballs were beautifully tender and tasty with a light gravy. The rapini was perfectly cooked and well flavored.
Saving the best for last tiramisu served in a short pot filled with a yummy creamy pudding over a thin base of chocolate cake threaded with a liquor and a sprinkling of dark cocoa and for a surprise crunch–rice crispies hidden in the cake.
To finish: a perfect cappuccino with firm, tasty foam.
What I like so much about Cipasso is that it offers a relief from heavy dinners served late in the evening. I prefer eating light: healthy greens, some protein, a good glass of wine, and sometimes a superlative dessert. Cipasso is just the kind of place I look for. Happily it’s located down the street from my hotel the Portoghesi and two blocks from Piazza Navona. Lovely for an after dinner stroll. Tonight a violinist is playing Ed Sherran’s “Perfect” Yes, indeed!
Cipasso is a wonderful place to land at the end of a long day wandering and sightseeing–usually on foot. It’s so nice to be warmly greeted; to sit and stay with a glass of prosecco and a savory bite or two. It feels like you’re at the home of friends.